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Yep, here it is.
This neck was based loosely around a 62 peghead. I fancied a
very figured strat neck and this one is superbly figured through
the length of the neck - birdseye style. Take a look at the main
features of this neck and I'll explain as we go..
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Front view of my neck. Notice there are no frets, but on
this one the fret board has been prepared to take the fret
wire. Frankly, I did not want to make a great strat, at the
expense of intonation, bad fret work etc, so I simply
specified exactly what I wanted and warmoth did the business.
You might think this is cheating, but I don't think so, I
could not have achieved the results by myself.
For the fret wire there were many choices but because I was a
gibson and Ibanez guy, I had dunlop 6105 Stainless Steel. Nut
with was 1" 5/8.
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The little hex screw on the picture to the
left is another unique variation on a theme. When I was
considering the neck either a truss rod the old fashioned way
was going to be (because of the 62 thing) or a truss rod
adjustment at the peg head end of the neck. I did not fancy
either they are both a pain. Warmoth did it again, and this
is something I recommend - they had a mod that brings out the
truss rod adjuster to the lower part of the neck. Hey presto,
neck truss rod adjustment without removing the neck. And it's
easier to get at rather than the peg head version. |
I opted for an Ebony fret board. While this adds extra cost to
the overall price of the neck I felt that it was worth the extra
because a maple neck sounds different than an ebony or rosewood
one. If you look close you will see some lighter streaks on the
ebony fret board. This is not because the ebony is second grade or
anything like that, but rather a confirmation that this wood
really is ebony and high quality at that. Gibson, for example,
often use specialist dies to remove these colour variations which
are usually predominant in ebony finger boards.
If you don't think the fret board will colour the sound of your
strat, take a listen at Hendrix, when he used almost exclusively a
maple neck, and compare that sound with that of the period when
Hendrix used a rosewood neck - the difference in sound is
striking. To my ears the maple only is much more biting and a
little too harsh for my needs - hence the ebony as my choice of
wood.
About my Neck Radius:
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This was a concept that Warmoth introduced
over a decade ago to improve both comfort and playability.
It has proven to be a very popular feature that they have
incorporated into the majority of their necks.
Everyone knows how comfortable vintage
Fender necks are for rhythm work and chording, but without
uncomfortably high action, string bending is not an option,
the strings "fret-out". To achieve low action and no buzz
string bending, many necks resort to a 16" fingerboard
radius. This certainly works, but the comfort factor is
lost.
What Warmoth developed was the theory and
technology to make the fret board conical. This retains a
tighter radius in the area commonly used for rhythm and
chording, while flattening the area used for bending and
lead playing. Warmoth selected a 10" radius at the nut for
both comfort and compatibility with the popular Floyd Rose
locking nut.. A 16" radius at the heel has proven to afford
2-1/2 step bends with action below a 16th of an inch. A
great solution to anotherwise aggrevation area. |
Now you know about my neck choices move on and checkout the
'nut' section.
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